Hotel Casa Iturbe is the kind of place that takes about 10 minutes to fully sink in. You walk through the entrance, there's a courtyard, plants everywhere, that specific colonial silence that old Mexican buildings carry in their walls - and you realize you've stumbled into something that wasn't built to impress you, it just does. Zitácuaro isn't on most tourist maps and that's honestly its best quality, because the people who do find it tend to find places like this.
The hotel draws a specific type of guest - people who came for the monarch butterfly reserve and stayed longer than planned, Mexican families doing a slow weekend away from Mexico City, the occasional foreigner who went off the main route and is very glad they did. Staff run the place with the kind of attentiveness you only get at a small family-operated property where someone actually cares how your stay goes, and that difference is felt from the first five minutes.